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OUR
ADVICE REGARDING YOUR BEHAVIOR WHILE IN MEXICO
Conflict
between the traditions and cultures of Mexico
and the United States
is not generally commonplace knowledge of those traveling south to Mexico. The melting pot which we have been blessed to be a part of in the states
has developed unseen lines of demarcation between the barrios of Los
Angeles (as an example) and the other areas of L.A. that do not have a
high percentage of Mexican inhabitants. Those differences in culture that
you may find during a casual visit to Mexico
may not be obvious. But if you are True Traveling to your boat or vacation
home on a continual basis there are some general travel tips that will
help your stay remain trouble free and more enjoyable. A prolonged stay
will demand that you be aware of a different set of manners in your
approach to the local population.
The isolated stories you have heard or read of misfortune
experienced by others have been the result of bad judgment, poor
preparation, and/or a bit of bad luck. Driving in Mexico
after consuming alcohol or drugs is not advised. In addition, any
possession of firearms in Mexico
is strictly prohibited. Your drive to and from Ensenada
may include a checkpoint for firearms and drugs search and seizure. The
majority of times through these checkpoints you will be waved on through,
however, at times a search may be performed.
The first axiom to remember-attitude begets attitude. Your attitude
is very important when dealing with any form of authority in Mexico. A smile and an attempt at what little Spanish you may speak will go a
long way toward determining the treatment you receive from the Mexican
authorities. Regardless of how good or bad your Spanish speaking attempts
may be, the mere fact that you made the attempt is the important factor.
Also, your clothing is the first impression that will be evaluated by
governing officials. Be aware they have seen it all, from hippies to
hotshots, and you are entering their country as a guest and should dress
respectfully. Barefoot and barely clothed is OK in the marina, but in town
you are in an entirely different environment, governed by a Catholic
mentality, so dress accordingly. This also applies to your dealings with
those friendly common Mexican citizens that you will encounter. The ugly
American image is not wanted south of the border and Mexican citizens can
sense that attitude immediately.
In addition, learn these simple rules before you become too friendly. American casualness easily offends Mexican formality
of every social class. And a condescending attitude toward anyone is a
mark of “poor breeding” that Mexicans at every status level are quick
to note. The exception is, of course, if you are the employer of a Mexican
national then a kind courtesy devoid of real close relationship is the
accepted norm. But take the time to cross the border completely and
embrace that employee and his or her family and you will find yourself
greatly rewarded.
So an American traveling to Mexico
has choices to make, within the structure of Mexican tradition, and the
Mexican perception of our cultural approach. Again, be aware that the old
Catholic precepts and strong family infra-structure prevail. You will be
accepted according to initial impressions of manners and appearance. Do
not criticize the Mexican ways of behavior. Patriotism is extremely strong
and Mexicans are distinctly proud of being Mexican. Even if you are right
in pointing out how things are wrong and could be improved, Mexicans
resent being told by foreigners.
As humans, we possess a
natural fear of that which we do not understand. Also, as humans we often
do things we would prefer not to do if the money is good enough. Those
spending time at the 90 Day Yacht Club would be wise to spend some
“quality time” with the local population, whether it is with employees
that you may take on during your stay, dock or hotel workers you may
encounter, or restaurant personnel. A night on the town will afford you
the chance to meet many fine Ensenada
folks, many speak English, or you may both be able to improve your
attempts at speaking each other’s new language.
While in Mexico, learn and study these differences and your understanding of this
entirely different culture will be greatly enriched. Many Americans assume
that their ways are best and have a tendency to be arrogant about the way
they conduct their business. The Mexicans are content to retain the system
they have lived within for centuries and your visit is just a temporary
one, so treat this beautiful country that you are visiting with a friendly
mutual respect.
The temporary visitor may never see or talk to the elegant upper
crust of Mexico. The women of Mexico
can be an aristocratic reminder of the past when las damas only dabbled in
charities and the arts, leaving commercial concerns to the patriarchal
heads of the family. Patterns of social change have emerged as the modern
day Mexican female gains her independence and her fiery Latin temperament
and lady-like persuasion learned from her mother take on a new form of
leadership in the country. This will undoubtedly introduce a new awareness
in business morals and reinforce the Catholic standard of life that has
been diluted in recent generations.
As times have changed, the youth have discovered contemporary new
world clothing, music trends and behaviors; much of this due to the
greater communication through media in the current world experience.
Indeed, you may find the cultures are merging as our world evolves into a
common sphere of knowledge. But a measure of understanding of the
intrinsic cultural history of this unique and interesting new area prior
to your visit will make your stay a wonderful enterprise as you reap the
benefits of your 90 Day stay.
DONA
PETRA
CANYON: OLD KUMIAI INDIAN REFUGE
Ensenada
is usually associated with its huge bay, the Bahia de Todos
Santos, its beaches, and its gateway to the sea to all points south. Just inland
you will find another side of the areas beauty at the foot of the Juarez
de Sierra mountain range, which reach toward central Baja California, dividing the Baja geographically from the Sea
of
Cortez. This area of hills, arroyos and ravines offer an incredible diversity of
topography, and if you have the time, should be explored while you are in
the Ensenada
area.
One of these is Dona
Petra
Canyon
located at the end of Avenue Ruiz, an area of recreation for many years
for many generations of Ensenada
residents. Here you will find an interesting array of white sculpted
granite rocks formed as the Baja separated from the continent of mainland Mexico. These multi-million year old stone effaces would tell quite a tale if
enabled! The vegetation is comprised mainly of evergreen oaks and alder
trees. The huge oaks that are perhaps 200 years old provide shade to the
heat of the hot afternoon sun. The alder trees rise taller than the oaks
and shed their leaves beautifully every fall, enhancing the hues of the
light bark on their trunks.
This canyon was home to the proud Kumiai Tribe that lived here long
before the city of Ensenada
was established. The remnants of the tribe can be found evidenced by small
mortars carved in the stone grouped together in frequent locations within
the Canyon. These were the gathering places for the tribe, an area of
sharing of daily life events and problems. Here they would grind one of
the main staples of the region during that era, oak acorns. The acorns
would be ground into a heavy liquid to provide sustenance to be shared at
the many feasts and ceremonies enjoyed by this primitive tribe during
times of harvest. These feasts were described in the 1794 publication
“News from the California Provence” written by Fray Luis de Sales.
This way of life still can be found by visiting the current day Kumiai
Tribe that resides at San Jose de la Zora and San Antonio Necua. A visit
to the Dona
Petra
Canyon
area will provide an interesting contrast to the life found along the
coast and in the city of Ensenada.
Book buyers
are less influenced by price differentials than almost any category of
customer.
ASADERO
LOS REVOLTIJOS
This little restaurant is located at Ave. Alvarado (the flag street) and
7th street
on the northeast corner easily recognizable by the large tree stationed at
the corner of the building. Asadero La Chispa (# 28 on our books site maps
and featured in our last newsletter) occupied this location for one month
and re-modeled the establishment to look just like their other location
with a tile counter and a separate tile serving table. The counter
faces the cooking area where the friendly family of cooks and servers
works to prepare your meal as you watch the cooking process. Fresh salsas
and guacamole dip line the counter and corn chips (totopos de maiz) are
served as you wait for your meal. You will find that most Ensenada
restaurants prepare your food fresh out of the reefer after you order, as
wasted pre-prepared and un-served food is not a luxury that these humble
establishments can afford. This little place was almost full with our
lunch party of 8 people that visited last week from our marina. This made
our service a one-on-one experience and we were treated as guests in the
family home. Great prices with a quaint, clean and down home atmosphere.
Delivery available, see Victor at the Marina Coral in the Marine Store to
view the menu to help you facilitate an order to your yacht.
Say holla to the owner, Ivette Garcia Tolosa, the nice lady that
will fill your order and plate with delicious food.
E-mail: KOIJO@TELNOR.NET
TEL. 175-78-50
Click on these photos and the following photos in
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ENSENADA’S EARLY HISTORY
The bay of all saints or Bahia de Todos Santos, has evolved into the best port along the entire Baja west coast after
its discovery by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo in 1542. It soon became a harbor
for both the
Manila
galleons navigating the coast from San Francisco
to the East and the pirate ships that lay in wait for them. The actual
development of Ensenada
did not begin until the early 1870’s, then largely as a result of the
gold finds in the mountains to the south for which Ensenada
served as the port. In 1877, the status of port of entry was made
official, and in 1882, owing to its continued growth and importance,
Ensenada
replaced the by-then declining Real de Castillo as the capital of northern
Baja California. The town then consisted of 5 or 6 houses, and some 25 to 30 residents,
plus about 25 soldiers that were garrisoned there.
Ensenada
is situated on what was once known as the Rancho de Ensenada which was
titled to the late Don Pedro Gastelum in 1878 by the Supreme Government of
Mexico. He sold the ranch to Senor Maximiliano Berstein in May, 1886, who
sold it to what was then known as the International Company of Mexico. The land was then parceled into blocks of 100 meters per side, and lots
of 25 by 50 meters, for town site and settlement. The remaining lands were
divided into portions and within these was founded the Carlos Pacheco
Colony south of town, which was further divided into the ranches of Cipres,
Maneadero, and Punta Banda, purchased in the most part from private
individuals with previous land titles.
Ensenada
was the largest settlement in the district. The areas climate was and is
unsurpassable in climate, fronting the beautiful bay
of
Ensenada, the Bahia de Todos Santos. The area established communication with San Diego, by sea and by land two or three times a week. The areas sole support at
this time was agriculture, livestock and fishing. Crops and plants were
reliant on rain watered lands to survive. Beyond that there was no
important industry yet established.
Rimming the bay is a flat coastal plain that was situated about
midway between the missions of Santo Tomas and San Miguel (now known as La
Mision), approximately 30 miles equidistant to the southeast and
northwest, respectively. At the turn of the 1800’s, these coastal plains
were inhabited by rancherias of indigenous Indians, and were passed over
for consideration for a mission site due to the areas lack of natural
adequate water table irrigation. It was well suited for grazing, and since
Mission San Miguel possessed rich grazing land, the Mission Santo Tomas
used the area for the raising of their livestock. In 1804, with consent of
both missions, the plains were divided into two parcels for development
into two cattle ranches to the north and to the south. These ranches
remained in control of the areas lowlands until dissolution of the grants
in the mid-1800’s.
For quite awhile the area around the Bahia de Todos Santos
remained undeveloped. In 1849, a visit to the huge cattle ranch owned by
the Senor Francisco Gastelum, an elegant Spanish man who had many of the
conveniences of what was then considered civilized life of that era, would
reveal clean tables, with table furniture and the first knives and forks
to be seen in this country. In 1867 visitors to the area passed Ensenada
unnoticed and arrived at El Sauzal 7 miles to the northwest at a landing for
small vessels. Little wonder Ensenada
was missed as Ensenada
reportedly only had 3 inhabitants in 1870, and El Sauzal had a population
of 10!
The next decade saw the development of huge tracts of land charter
in the south near San Quintin by British and American holding companies
headquartered in Ensenada. Large-scale agriculture was undertaken, a number of
little workshops and mills established, and hotels and various businesses
began. A telegraph line was extended to San Diego
and south to San Quintin. The wagon trail to Tijuana
was rebuilt, and a pier constructed at
Ensenada
and Punta Banda. Three small steamers offered service to San Diego, San Quintin, and to the Mexican mainland city of Manzanillo, touching various points in between. The population of
Ensenada
swelled to about 1500, which by the standards of the rest of the frontera,
made Ensenada
a virtual metropolis! In 1889, the name, Ensenada de Todos Santos
was shortened to just Ensenada.
Unfortunately for Ensenada’s spectacular growth in the 1880’s, it was related to several
conditions that would soon prove to be short-lived. The gold rushes that
brought many from the north in search of quick riches soon fizzled as the
gold claims in the mountains south of Ensenada
ran dry of any consequential yields. Furthermore, the Boom of the Eighties
north of the border in California, which had driven up land values and land speculation in northern
Baja California, had collapsed by mid-1888. This meant that the economy of northern Baja
remained stagnant for the next decade into the 20th century. To
make the situation worse, a several year period of heavy rain fall ended,
and was followed by a period of below-average precipitation. Ensenada’s
population had dwindled to 850 inhabitants by 1900, of which less than
half were true colonists, the remaining inhabitants consisted of mostly
out-of-luck gold miners.
At the turn of the century, the capital appointment was lost to
Mexicali
and the Mexican Revolution of 1915 annulled these land charters. Even
though by 1921 the population had climbed to 2,178, Ensenada
remained for many years a sleepy little picturesque town. Gradually the
harbor grew into a major seaport and became an export center for the
agricultural goods of Valle de Mexicali. Being the closest foreign port to
California, the town and surrounding ranches and farms enjoyed a renewed period of
growth and wealth. Throughout the 1940s and '50s the port gained a
reputation as one of the finest sport and commercial fishing areas on the
west coast, having at one time been known as the "Yellowtail Capital
of the World".
When the 1930's emerged as the era of bootleg liquor, smuggling
activities and gambling establishments became a staple of the economy.
At the corner of Blvd. Lazaro Cardenas and Ave. Riviera
is the former Casino Riviera del Pacifico, built in the late 1920's. In
it's heyday it was a famous gambling house, once managed by the boxer Jack
Dempsey. The opening act in 1929 featured Bing Crosby backed by the Xavier
Cugat Orchestra. The orchestra included a singer named Margarita Carmen
Cansino, a Baja native later to be known as Rita Hayworth. It now can be
visited in its current incarnation as a cultural center.
Note the building
(which still stands to your left just as you cross the new bridge entering
Ensenada) at the left of the below mid-20th century photo offering rooms
for $2!!!
Before you can sell a person anything,
you have to make them want it more than it costs.
BORDER
CROSSING TIPS
When crossing the border there is the famous red light/green light
system determining whether you are subject to search for imported goods or
allowed to cruise through. A red light and loud bell will be your cue to
pull to the right and into the inspection lanes. Again, attitude is
important if inspected. If you are returning to your boat, have the
original copy of your importation document issued when checked into the port
of
Ensenada
with you. If you are importing a lot of boat gear, this may allow you
through without paying importation duties. But that document is not a
guarantee of you not paying importation duties; this is subject to the
mood of, and interpretation of the law, subject to the discretion of the
inspecting official. Our best advice is a friendly greeting by you and a
willingness to open every door when asked. Don't willfully offer
information about what you have, your destination, or your possession of
the importation documentation, except when asked. Also, try to keep
importation of new gear to a minimum. The Mexican border officials would
have you pull into the "Declare" lanes automatically, but this
could be costly in time and funds. A part of your pre-trip planning would
have all that great new stuff from your local marine store already on the
boat when disembarking from the U.S.. But forgotten or upgrade items may have to be transported during your
Ensenada
stay. Remember to smile and learn to say “Holla, como
esta usted?” (“hello, how are you”), etc… in Spanish to lessen the
tension and put you back on the road to the Ensenada
(see our Spanish glossary for more useful phrases).
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ALONG THE ROADS TO AND FROM
ENSENADA
YOU WILL FIND AN INTERESTING ARRAY OF PAINTED ROCKS, THIS IS ONE OF OUR
FAVORITES
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Please e-mail us with your
experiences, good or bad, using our books on our feedback page. Thank
you for purchasing our books and we wish you many safe and happy True
Travels.
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